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Thursday, June 14, 2007

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PC Mod Project: Gen 8.5 (Part 27)

I received my new EVGA 8800GTX 576/1800 video card from UPS yesterday. I ordered it from Newegg with UPS Ground, and received it the next day! Amazing. *grin*

Here's a pic of it and all components in the box, as well as the Auzen X-Meridian 7.1 sound card above the newly mounted EVGA 8800GTX video card:

I quickly realized how much heat the 8800GTX dumps out, so I moved the X-Meridian up to the top PCI slot. This gives the 8800GTX room to vent hot air above it, and be pushed out of the case by the front 120mm fan. I cut some simple plastic mesh and mounted it on the back of the case to replace the standard expansion slot covers. This lets almost all of the heat generated from the 8800GTX escape from the rear of the case. Whenever I decide to add a second 8800GTX, I'll have to move the X-Meridian card back down. However, I'll make sure the slot between the sound and video card there is open with mesh to help cool things.

Plenty of space to cool at low fan RPMs, and all done and lit-up with CCFLs...

Below is a screen cap of my 3DMark 2005 score (default settings and test), along with my idle temps while the fan voltages are turned all the way down (less than 5V). When the fans are turned up to 7V, idle temp on the CPU cores fluctuate between 39C and 40C each at 3GHz.

E6400 at 3GHz (3,008 MHz), and 8800GTX at stock 575MHz/1800MHz speeds, and note the sweet FSB to DRAM ratio of 1:1 *wink*

...

Thumb:

Here's a video of the LCD readout for fan speeds and temps. I've took the video with my 5mp digital camera (the 1GB flash card helps), and then edited it quickly with Adobe After Effects:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=xS_rfq8hUpY

Posted By cipher_nemo At 12:00 PM

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

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PC Mod Project: Gen 8.5 (Part 26)

There are still some things needed before this project is finished:

Get replacement Bulgin switch and wire up both with my own wire, resistors, and connectors
Create audio line-level switch
Install new sound card
Install new video card(s)
Play with overclocking (currently at 3GHz) and post results from 3DMark 05, along with max temps from speedfan and Intel TAT after running Prime95 for hours.
Take money shots

Here's some updates! I needed to hard switch the 1/8" (3.5mm) jacks since I'm running both my PVR and this moded PC into one set of Klipsch speakers. The built-in sound on the PVR's mobo doesn't play nicely with ohm adjustment if I simply use a 'Y' splitter to connect both PCs to the speakers. So, I need a switch.

I've looked all over the web and at local stores and was unable to find a simple 1/8" audio jack switch. I guess there's little demand for it. I did find something similar, which is an iPod, headphone, PC, and auxiliary switch that uses 1/8" jacks, but it looks like it was discontinued. I also found A/B switches for RCA jacks (audio and video), but this are large and would require me to purchase 1/8" jack to RCA converter cables (a major waste of money).

As a result of my frustration, I decided to build my own. I'm using cheap Radio Shack parts, including a DPDT rocker switch ($3.79), three 1/8" jack mounts ($2.99 each), and a 1x3x2" plastic project box ($2.29). A total of $15.05. This was two bucks cheaper than a nice A/B, RCA switch alone. I snapped some shots as I built it.

Opened project box, switch, and 1/8" jacks:

I measured and drills holes for the switch and audio jacks....

The left and right channel for stereo 1/8" jacks share a common ground. It's a hard ground (not a floating ground), connecting itself to the entire PC's ground system. Because of this, I am able to permanently connects the grounds of each connection:

Wires cut and stripped, and heat shrink tubing cut to length for left and right channel connections:

I didn't need to solder anything. I ran the wires through the holes in each component's small spade, then wound it around. I tightened each connection with needle-nose pliers, then put the heat-shrink tubing around it to hold everything in place.

I am essentially mounting this in an upside-down position of how the project box was intended to sit. I'd rather hide the project box's screws, and have a perfectly flat surface facing down. The switch-side of the box has little bumps which was intended to be the bottom. The switch is done and mounted, with wires sticking out of it...

Audio jacks mounted, showing underside of switch box:

It's not the sleekest of switches, lol, but it gets the job done nicely, and does so in a very small package (smaller than any audio switch you can buy). I mounted this switch to my desk, just between my two monitors, and a little further back so it's not so noticeable. Works great! Completed switch, with input audio jack on the right, and outputs in the middle:

Also, I just received my new sound card yesterday. I decided to ditch the idea of using a Creative Labs X-Fi card, and go for a C-Media Oxygen CMI8788-based card instead. I don't need EAX 5.0 (2.0 is fine), and I really don't like Creative Lab's poor IRQ steering/sharing built into the X-Fi chip. They really haven't perfected this, which is why so many X-Fi users sometimes experience the occasional scratch, crackle, or pop (SCP) in games.

I'm really sick of Creative Labs' issues here, especially with newer sound cards. I'm not sure I'd have the same problem, but I know it can get bad. I used to run an Audigy 2 ZS, which had no SCP problem. I upgraded to an Audigy 4 when it came out, and starting experiencing SCP problems may be once during 2 hours of gaming. Now from Creative Labs' own forums, SCP is a well known and often unsolvable problem on different PC configurations.

To avoid all of that, I'm happy to dump any hope of using EAX 5.0 in favor of EAX 2.0 with far better sound quality and no IRQ sharing issues. Therefore I opted for an Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 (the top model Auzen board). Auzen has a new board coming out with an X-Fi chip, so I'll be avoiding that, lol. *pbbt*

I just have to say that I'm blown away by the quality of the hardware, software drivers, and sound of the X-Meridian. There is life beyond Creative Labs, and it feels ooooh so good! *grin*

Here's two shots of my new sound card. Great protective packaging, and card with all solid-state capacitors, separate chips and capacitors for each channel (front, rear, side surround, sub)...:

With such a great card, I'm going to have to buy some wireless speakers to make use of the side and rear surround channels. Too many people think that getting 4, 5.1, or 7.1 means having to purchase the corresponding speaker set. You only need the card to handle DTS, etc.; you can create your own sound system with individual components, provided your sound card has all of the connections already.

As for my video card situation, I've also ditched my existing idea of running two 8800GTS cards in SLI. Running this configuration is faster in some games that can use SLI, but for other games, it's neck and neck in performance with a single 8800GTX. So, I'm already ordered one monster 8800GTX (a 768MB EVGA at 570MHz/1800MHz speed). Here's my reasoning:

I run dual monitors, and use two monitors for various work, but only one for gaming. It's far easier to disable the second monitor on one card than it is to switch SLI on and off. If I am currently working, but now want to load a game and get the best performance, switching on SLI requires a reboot. Disabling the second monitor to ensure a single video card is dedicated to only one monitor requires only a few clicks, and no reboot.
The 8800GTX will have a higher resale value in the future than the GTS.
The 8800GTX Ultra is way overpriced for just an overclock.
Having two 8800GTS cards will mean I'll have to replace both cards (or remove one and replace the other) in order to upgrade in the future. Having one 8800GTX means I can add a second 8800GTX if I ever want to upgrade my performance. It also means I can sell the 8800GTX and get the next gen nVidia card if the market takes a price dive in the future.
My system will be a little cooler and use less power with just one 8800GTX vs. two 8800GTS cards.

Posted By cipher_nemo At 12:00 PM

Tuesday, June 05, 2007

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PC Mod Project: Gen 8.5 (Part 25)

Wow, it looks like Mark is turning out to be a real prick. My advice to you: never buy from FrozenCPU. They don't respect you as a customer, and they like to play the threat game too:

John

We will take photos of your cables when they arrive for Visa/MC. We also will point out to Visa and Mastercard that any items that are modified by customers are not returnable. You are not going to bully us with a chargeback because you will lose. I have your emails stating that you cut these cables.

I will also get signed affadavits from my employees that these wires we sell work perfectly. I also will sue you for damages should you try and reverse the damages. I will take you to small claims court for the cost of the plane ticket to file in your area. We have done this before and we will do it again.

In the end you will be out money should you pursue this any further. I reccommend you cut your losses because I live to fight people like you in court.

The ball is in your court now.

Mark Friga Jr
.A+/Net+/MCSE
President
FrozenCPU.com
1877.243.8266

I've settled the issue with Mark, so here's the final e-mail correspondence. It's not worth my time and energy (or his) to keep battling each other. I'll get the one defective switch replaced, and concede on the cables. I know I don't want to waste my time with FrozenCPU after this experience.

Mark,

I know my limited rights as protected by consumer laws, and I know the guidelines established by Visa and other credit-issuing banks for chargebacks. I also know of your threats and general lack of concern for customers from their own experiences with you. Your cowboy-like legal threats and the attitude you convey in your messages may be acceptable in New York, but I won't tolerate them. I certainly don't understand how one can do business with such bullying tactics. Are you familiar with recommended strategies to avoid chargebacks? All it takes is 1-2% of sales with chargebacks to be blacklisted by credit authorities.

This might help you:

www.sitepoint.com/print/chargeback-challenge"]www.sitepoint.com/print/chargeback-challenge

As for the chargeback, expect to receive the entire order returned, in the same condition as I received it, aside from defective resistors (or resistor connections) and one Bulgin Vandal switch that is also defective (as per my phone conversation prior to these e-mails). I'm not claiming the cables are untouched. I did cut the ends, but I will re-crimp the larger style quick-disconnects to make sure you receive everything. I am claiming defective goods, but before I file a claim, I must ship the order back to you. Expect it with confirmation. If you refuse the shipment, that will also go into the chargeback file. I will also include an unopened fan controller as sold in that order. Aside from the defective items, they will be in a like-new condition, ready to be sold again.

If you encourage me to do a chargeback, you will lose shipping costs, the profit from this order, put another mark on your vendor record, and waste time for both of us. You've already damaged your reputation with me and other customers you've treated so recklessly. I will not be bullied by businesses with little regard for their customers. You may elect not to respond to my returned package, but if you want to avoid a chargeback, I'll need e-mail confirmation that you will credit my card account with a full refund of the order, minus shipping. If not, I'll be forced to start the chargeback process on this order, after you've received the items. Please note that I will document the entire packaging of the order since I no longer trust you or FrozenCPU.

Mark wrote back...

If you send everything back in good order and resellable condition. I will consider processing a full refund minus shipping.

I cannot refund the wiring that you already admitted to modifying.

Example- the bulgin switch is not defective you burned it out. It states on the product page that these will NOT be returned for customers that burned out the LED with overvoltage. This is written in huge red lettering.

I also know through other chargeback attempts, that if you cut wires etc, you cannot expect to win a chargeback. We have been in business 7 years on the internet and we deal with chargebacks all the time. Some we win, some we lose.

Perhaps we can meet in the middle somewhere as this will begin a pissing match between the both of us.

Mark Friga Jr
.A+/Net+/MCSE
President
FrozenCPU.com
1877.243.8266

I replied...

Mark,

I am willing to meet somewhere in the middle, because you are right, I don't want to add fuel to a "pissing match" between us that will cost both of us money, time, and plenty of headache.

If you want to avoid a chargeback, I do not need to send back everything. That is only necessary for a chargeback, since my bank and Visa will not allow the split-up of charges for a couple items inside one larger order. You've shown constraint in your last e-mail from continuing our battle of words, and for that I am willing to drop the issue of the wires. I've already made my own, regardless, so I'm willing to eat the cost on those.

However, I do have one Bulgin Vandal switch that has a defective press-action. The LED works like new (I tested the LED with two sub-C cells at 3.2V since it runs at 3.4V). I did not burn out the LED, that isn't the problem. The actual press of the switch doesn't work right. It makes contact, but it doesn't click like the other, and the amount of pressure needed to use it isn't right.

I'd be happy just sending this one switch back for a replacement. How is that for middle ground? I'm dropping the issue on the cables since we'll never agree on that.

Thanks.

Mark wrote back...

PERFECT-send it back and I will swap it for you- NO PROBLEM

The "president" or owner of any company, regardless of its size, should never treat customers in an aggressive, hostile, and threatening manner. ForzenCPU.com is run by an individual who portrays himself as nothing more than a fly-by-night, small-time con artist. So sad. FrozenCPU is off of my list for places to receive my business. Newegg.com is still king in my world.

Posted By cipher_nemo At 12:00 PM

Monday, June 04, 2007

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PC Mod Project: Gen 8.5 (Part 24)

Some updates on the discussion with Mark, the owner of FrozenCPU regarding their less than acceptable Bulgin Vandal cables...

On 6/4/07, Mark-FrozenCPU.com wrote:

John
How can i possibly except your return after you have completely decimated our wiring.

We have hooked ours up to fit as you can see in our photos. A tight fit they are however it has been done by several other modders.

Now if you had asked us to return these prior to shredding these cables, I might have been able to do something however I cannot accept these as a return now-

Mark Friga Jr
.A+/Net+/MCSE
President
FrozenCPU.com
1877.243.8266

I replied just now:

Mark,

I find it interesting that you define modded as "decimated" and sleeving as "shredding".

The product you sold me is not as advertised, nor does it function (even before I've added my own ends). It is defective, and it did not have the correct quick-disconnect ends. If you refuse to help me, you leave me no choice but to reverse the charges with my bank and send everything back to you. This would also mean I would no longer want to do business with FrozenCPU. Is that worth the price of a few cables?

If I was dealing with a major component provider such as Newegg, they would have no qualms correcting a situation such as this. And, because of their customer service, they've earned my trust and respect for thousands of dollars over the last year alone.

Your choice.

I guess I'll have to wait to see how bright Mark is in regards to negative marketing, and how long he tries to hold his bluff. The consumers hold almost all of the cards in any electronic purchase. Most businesses don't expect the average consumer to realize this, and use it to bully them when they can.

Posted By cipher_nemo At 10:00 PM

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PC Mod Project: Gen 8.5 (Part 23)

I'm finished with the mod! Whoot! *grin*

happy, happy, joy, joy I need to buy the 8800's and X-Fi sound card, but those are just components. All of the modding is done!

I'll post the updates from this weekend, including the work I did on the final parts. First, though, I'd like to vent a little about my Bulgin Vandal switch experience (from FrozenCPU.com). I found out that one of the switches doesn't have the nice "click" feel, and takes an excessive amount of pressure to make its 'momentary switch' contact. That's not such a big deal, because I can return that switch for a replacement. What really steamed me was the broken resistors combined with the over-sized quick-disconnects on the cables I bought from FrozenCPU. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I replaced the quick-disconnects with smaller ones. I was willing to go that far to avoid returning the cables. Since then, though, I discovered that the LED cables don't work at all. This is most likely due to separated or broken resistors.

So, I called FrozenCPU, but their phone rep couldn't help me. He was at least nice to me and suggested I e-mail that online store's owner, mark@frozencpu.com. Here's my e-mail:

Mark,

I e-mailing you as suggested by one of your phone representatives. This is in regards to order number (removed for privacy).

For this order, I purchased two Bulgin Vandal switches and wires specifically made to connect them with a motherboard (with connectors and resistors). When I received them, I noticed that the area where the resistors are spliced into the cables felt limp. I assumed the best, figured it was just a delicate connection, and treated it gently. Next, I noticed the wires were crimped to large-sized quick disconnects. They were too large to connect to the switches because connecting one would physically prohibit me from connecting another. The Bulgin switches have four small quick disconnect terminals, fairly close to one another, and only smaller quick disconnects will fit.

Despite the wrong-sized quick disconnects, I decided to bite the bullet on this and purchase my own, smaller quick disconnects. I snipped off the over-sized ones, and crimped on the new quick disconnects. I sleeved the cable, and set it aside while I worked on the rest of my mod project. Unfortunately, I later discovered that the resistors were limp-feeling for a reason; the resistors are making no electrical contact with the wire. At this point I'm giving up on FrozenCPU's wires. I purchased resistors of my own, and made brand new cables.

I hope that you can credit my FrozenCPU account (or next order) for the cost of the four cables (power switch, power LED, reset switch, and HDD LED cables). I'd be happy to send back what I have left of the cables, if so desired. I still have the wires, motherboard header pin connectors, and non-functioning resistors, but not the quick disconnects. I don't need or want replacements at this point. Since I made my own cables, and since your cables don't have the correct quick disconnects, I don't want replacements. Your phone rep claimed he wasn't able to help me because I "modified" the cable. I find that difficult to believe since FrozenCPU is an online store for "modder" supplies.

Thank you for your time.

Hopefully Mark will help me out with getting credit for those cables.

If anyone recalls in a previous post, I purchased pre-cut 1/8" thick acrylic for the side window, and 1/2" wide double-sided automotive molding tape to mount it. The molding tape works great and was easy to cut:

Next, I marked off the locations of my cuts. I marked with a sharpie (which is easily removed with alcohol), then masked off the area with painter's tape to protect the acrylic. Sitting on the panel are the LCD readout and USB connector to mount, and then the completed cut-outs and drilled holes...

I love the AC Freezer 7 Pro CPU cooler, but I hate the layout for the fan's power cable. It's too long, and looks ugly when connected...

So, time to sleeve that as well. Here's the result:

I needed to really shorten my SATA power cable because the PSU is right next to all of the drives. First is the two power connections for the HDDs. Have you ever seen two SATA power connectors so close together?

I then added a third SATA power connector for the DVD burner, which is a straight-end connector instead of the clamp-on style. Sleeved and connected to the two Scythe HDD Silencers' power and data 'dongles', then Dongles mounted together on the back of one of the HDDs...

Before I had problems with the Bulgin switch and FrozenCPU cables, I created an extender. This helped to keep the pin connectors from slipping off of the motherboard, because sleeving made the other cables very rigid.

All of the components I started with...